desert – Brightside Nomads

Adventure

Belated Musing of a Wandering Family

By PapaWanderer July 29, 2019

Time gives perspective, and since it’s been about a year since our return, I think I can finally put down a few words to sum up our journey. The intent of making this site was to create something that our kids could have and reflect on as they get older. It’s been great fun cataloging the journey and we will continue to do so as we venture further afield across this great planet. We also get a lot of pleasure from strangers and friends who have happened upon the site. The sharing of our travels and the conversations it prompts are fantastic.

As I look back at a year in a car with my family, traveling almost 24,000 miles, experiencing new adventures, and connecting with old places and friends I just feel blessed. Watching my children grow in wonder and knowledge is a gift that will be the greatest I have ever been given. Getting to know my children in a way few father’s get to is nothing short of amazing. I have a much more real and deep relationship with each child. They are more open to sharing with Katie and I, even when it’s embarrassing or personal. I’m not sure how the depth of the relationships with our children would have occurred had we not spent so much time together. As we move forward, back in our “normal” lives, the relationships keep getting stronger. Now I’ve always had a great relationship with the kiddos, but what I gained from our year wandering was a profound depth.

The relationship wasn’t just one way either. I feel our kids have a better understanding of mom and dad because they got to see many of the aspects of life that we hold dear. Adventure, nature, beauty in the simplest of things, great friendships, meeting new people, and respecting/taking care of the world we live in. One of the main goals Katie and I had for the trip was to give our children the ability to be flexible and to adapt quickly to new experiences. We also wanted to instill in them a sense of exploration of the world around them. We wanted them to know that the world is soo much bigger than the small town we live in. As Katie and I talk about the adventure, we feel all the kids have developed these traits and have started to incorporate them into their own personalities. Each child has been changed forever by the experience and it is exciting to see how they carry that forward as they grow up.

I would recommend this experience to every family. We know that taking a full year off to do so might not be realistic for everyone. But even a week or two of time with your kids, going somewhere you’ve never gone before, can be life-changing. Katie and I will always cherish this journey as something that was truly a once in a lifetime experience and profoundly life-affirming. We will always wander, sometimes alone, sometimes together, ever forward, and never lost.

The Nomads will Return…

Adventure

What’s Hot, Red, and Full of Rocks…Moab!!

By PapaWanderer August 5, 2018

Desert Playground – Moab

So after spending the last three weeks in 100+ temps, we thought it would be a good idea to stop at one more hot spot; Moab, Utah. We actually don’t mind the heat and have learned to make the most of our days early. I spent a bit of time in Moab during my college years. Mainly we came here to mountain bike, as it’s one of the best places in the US to do so. This time we had no mountain biking plans and hiking was the activity of choice. There is no shortage of options for outdoor hiking in and around Moab. There’s Canyonlands National Park, Arches National park and more public terrain than you can imagine. We decided, for our short trip, that Arches National Park was the best choice. It’s compact, offers a great variety of shorter family hikes and is absolutely incredible to explore.

Arches National Park – Day 1

On our first of three trips to the park, we decided on some shorter hikes and a drive around the large loop. We first hit up Double Arch. A short hike and a cool double arch that rose 80 feet above our heads. The terrain also offered some bouldering that our kids love. It’s pretty spectacular that you can get this close to these wonderous formations.

Next, we basically crossed the road to The Windows Arch and Turret Arch formations. The Windows are two arches in close proximity. You can go walk up underneath them and look out on the crazy arches landscape and mountains in the distance. If you take a vantage point a little further away you can see both arches at once and the formation almost looks like some kind of troll faced pair of glasses. Turret Arch stands directly across from The Windows. The Turret formation vaguely resembles a castle with a spire, hence the name. The whole loop is about a half mile. Easy for even the crankiest of kids. The loop provided ample opportunity for great photos and rock climbing for the kids. If you go in summer be prepared for some serious crowds and head out early to beat the heat. After taking in these first few arches, we decided to drive the 18-mile loop. You can see some amazing sites from your car along this drive. There are also dozens of pull outs so you can jump out and snap some epic pics. There are large towers, soaring rock fins, petrified sand dunes, bloody red and white chimneys, and of course arches. This is a great drive to take when the heat of the day starts pounding. This was a great first day in the park for us. We headed back to our hotel for some late day swimming and sampling some of the eateries Moab has on display.

The Arches loop drive.

Arches National Park – Day 2

Day 2 we decided to take a larger hike to one of the most iconic arches in the park; Delicate Arch. This hike is fairly moderate, but can become harder as the heat increases. You get to hike a big slick rock formation and through a small wash canyon on your way up. It’s a three mile round trip with almost 500 feet of elevation. The reward at the end is worth it. (even with a couple of cranking kids) I have seen the pics of the arch in magazines but they don’t prepare you for its real-life presence. The arch is big, I’d say maybe 70-80 feet tall and 30 feet wide. It’s stunning. The end of the hike could be a bit challenging if you have a fear of heights as you walk a narrow ledge around to the arch. It’s really not that bad if you don’t let your head get in the way. We took some great pictures and Colette ventured out to the arch itself for a little one on one. Even little Lennox liked the hike once he got to the top. The hike is crowded so be prepared for a lot of people on the trail and taking pics at the arch. The three mile hike ended back at the parking lot where there’s a short hike to some petroglyphs. The display is on the smaller side but no less impressive. We love to walk in the path of history and to know that Native Americans roamed this land and left their marks hundreds of years ago is always super cool.

We visited one more site this day; Balanced Rock. As the name suggests, this is a huge boulder balanced a hundred feet up on a small pillar of rock. The hike is super short and you can walk around the rock in under 15 min. It’s a great formation for the sheer audacity of its appearance. The kids climbed and bopped around as Katie and I speculated as to where it will fall when it tumbles. And tumble it will. Even though this park is all made of hard rock, from a geological perspective it’s very active and changing. The arches and balanced rocks won’t last forever. The rangers say that this park and the formations it contains are just the blink of an eye in the span of geologic history. The good news is that we probably have thousands of years before this alien landscape disappears.

Arches National Park – Day 3

On our last day in the park, we choose to go and see Landscape Arch. This is another iconic arch in the park and a short hike. This is the longest and highest arch in the park. The span is a couple hundred feet in the air and is almost the length of a football field. By this time I think the kids had enough arches. Katie and I really enjoyed this short hike and we got to see a couple of other small arches along the way.

We left the park and headed to our next destination. Another homecoming for me, as we were headed to Colorado high country. There awaited my alma mater (Western State Colorado University) and some of the most epic snowboarding I’ve ever ridden. Onwards to Gunnison and Crested Butte.

Adventure

Brian Head, Hurricane, St. George & Dinosaur Tracks… it’s sounding weird

By mamawanderer July 30, 2018

Welcome to Utah

We drove out of Yellowstone and made it to Salt Lake City where we spent a night to break up the drive. We have found the kids do better if we don’t have super long drives and it’s probably the same for the parents. We were also planning on camping for the next 4 days and with it being summer we wanted to find a campsite early. Our camping plans were quickly kiboshed after Lennox got sick. We decided to find an Airbnb rather than stay in a tent with a puking child. The temperatures were also dropping into the low 40’s at night in the area and although we could do it, that is pretty chilly for the kids. Our last minute search lead us to a place we had never heard of, Brian Head, Utah, for a few nights. It’s always good to be flexible while traveling and also can be fun to discover places you may never find otherwise. Brian Head is a super small town/ski resort sitting at an elevation of 10,000 ft. It is way up there and you can feel it. It is about an hour from Bryce Canyon National Park and we discovered 10 minutes away was Cedar Breaks National Monument. Being at a ski resort in summer meant we had the whole place to ourselves and it ended up being a perfect spot to relax and recover our sick little guy and then explore some spectacular parks.

Brian Head and Cedar Break National Monument

The drive up the mountain to Brian Head opened our eyes to the destruction a forest fire can cause. There were stretches of trees charred black for miles. In 2017 a wildfire burned 71,000 acres of the land here, the aftermath is very sad to view. Cedar Break National Monument is an enormous amphitheater of beautifully colored sedimentary rock that has been carved away into beautiful formations. We viewed this park from above and it was a spectacular site. It is part of the Grand Staircase, a geological formation which begins at the floor of the Grand Canyon and steps up across the Western US. Seeing these natural wonders and learning about the geology behind their formation makes you realize just how fluid the earth’s surface is and gives you perspective on time and the mere blink of an eye we stand on this earth.

Bryce Canyon National Park

Bryce Canyon is out of this world. From your drive into the park the red-hued rock formations are spectacular and as you explore further it becomes even more impressive. Looking out from above the park offers amazing views of the hoodoos balancing below and as you walk into the canyon your perspective changes and you begin to appreciate the enormity of the formations surrounding you. We started our day here early to beat the heat and it is a good thing we did because it gets smoking hot at the bottom of the canyon. We took the Navajo Loop/Queens Garden trail which starts at the rim of the canyon and quickly descends in elevation while you walk along a windy path with steep drops. This always makes me a little nervous with the kids but they did great and the path was quite wide and well traveled. As we dropped down it was evident how difficult the steep hike up was and we knew we would have some work on the other side getting out. We enjoyed our time and our surroundings, many of the rock formations have names, like Thors Hammer, the Queens Garden, Wall Street, so it is fun to look at these and make up your own. Being at Bryce is like walking through a fairyland, each hoodoo formation is unique and unbelievable. I’m not going to lie our hike was tough, it was 3 miles and 600 ft of elevation but the heat was a factor, and the kids aren’t always sunshine and rainbows. They did realize in order to get back to our car we needed to climb out of this canyon so with many breaks and some snacks they pushed on. We were playing leapfrog with another family with small children so this added some excitement. I was happy when I saw the mom carrying her little one up the steep hills that Lennox was only pulling on my arm and still able to walk. There were definitely some big cheers as we reached the top of the canyon and cold drinks needed, it was a great accomplishment and well worth the trek to the bottom.

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Hurricane, Utah

After leaving Brian Head we had a short drive to our next Airbnb in Hurricane, Utah. It is right next to St. George which we discovered is the fastest growing metropolis in the United States! There is construction on every corner of this place and it is pretty wild. You can see why people are coming here in droves, the weather is warm and it is surrounded by amazing rock formations. It is an outdoor playground with lots of mountain biking and a short two-hour drive from Las Vegas. We had a week here and our main goal besides exploring was finishing school. I appreciate what teachers endure at the end of the school year so much now. The last month was a struggle, we, however, promised (or bribed) the girls if they finished their books by the end of this week they would be able to buy guinea pigs upon our return. With lots of hard work, they both busted through their books and I was as excited as they were to be done with their homeschooling year!!!

Zion National Park

We heard Zion gets super crowded and in order to secure parking, you have to arrive early. Early isn’t too hard for us so we were fine with that. In addition, it was going to be another hot one so the morning hikes are best. We didn’t anticipate just how many people were swarming on Zion though. By the time we got in line for the bus into the park, the wait was already an hour! The hour passed as the kids chased lizards and frogs and did some Junior Ranger work. Not so bad. We opted for 3 shorter hikes and this gave us a perfect first taste of Zion.

Searching for Dino Tracks

We were full of excitement to find out we were staying in an area with evidence of dinosaurs nearby. We had to go investigate. The first site we went to was ok but a bit of a letdown. We found the marked tracks after hiking a short ways in scorching heat, they were small and hard to decipher. To the non-paleontologist I think they look like scratches in the rock but that’s ok, knowing this was a path actual dinos stepped foot was amazing and we were glad we went, the hunt was still on though. The next day we ventured out to the second site. This was an adventure, lots of dirt road driving through the desert with no cell signal and no cars in site. It’s amazing how remote so much of the land in the United States is. It felt like if our car broke down we may never get help but that didn’t happen and we always are prepared with lots of water just in case. When we arrived at the actual site there was great signage explaining the tracks and what dinos they belonged to. These tracks were huge and it was well worth the desolate drive to see them.

Cool Places

We Have Definitely Found What We’re Looking For!!

By PapaWanderer April 30, 2018

BEHOLD!!!! Joshua Tree National Park

This place defies explanation. I’m going to give a brief synopsis of our visit, but I think the pictures that follow will tell the story much better. We camped for five days in this beautiful park. We knew we would have a special time when we got incredibly lucky and found an epic camping spot in the extremely coveted Hidden Valley campground. Rocks loomed all around our tent and they were formed in such a way that the kids could climb all around and really get hands-on with the rocks around us. Hidden Valley is a rock climbers paradise and the kids were amazed to see all the climbers high overhead scrambling up the massive rock faces. We did a ton of hiking and saw many of the parks major sights. The weather was glorious!! 80+ during the day and mid 50’s at night. We explored, cooked our camp meals and had one of the best adventures of our lives. The kids also completed a wonderful junior ranger program. If you get a chance to visit this park, run!! don’t walk to your car and get at it. For a treat, before we headed to the LA area, we spent a night in Palm Springs. The temperature was in the mid 90’s, we played in the pool, got much needed showers, and walked the streets of this hip destination. Next stop…la la land.

Hidden Valley Campground

Cholla Garden

Skull Rock and other Rocky Fun

Mountain Tops, Old Mines, and Joshua Trees

Bushwackin!

Joshua Tree City and Palm Springs

Adventure

Under the Tucson Sun…

By PapaWanderer April 3, 2018

Cactus Casita

Our week in Tucson started on a positive note with the arrival at our home. It was a beautiful casita tucked away from the residential neighborhoods with a stunning view of Mt Lemon in the backyard. Plenty of cacti and desert wildlife to keep us all happy. One nice thing about having a house with space is that we can fully unload the car and get ourselves resituated again. We unloaded, got settled and looked forward to our adventures in the week to come.

Museum of the Desert

We always love to see family and friends on our journey. While in Tucson we got to see Katie’s aunt and uncle, Holly and Steve. As an added bonus we got to see Aunt Phyllis and her friend. All of them were down visiting from the midwest, so it was fortuitous that we were all there at the same time. We decided to meet and go see the Sonoran Desert Museum. What an incredible place. The museum is mostly outdoors and is right smack dab in the middle of Saguaro-ville. We got to see and learn about plenty of cacti, animals of the desert and other flora. The highlight of the day was a live presentation on birds of prey. We saw owls, raptors, and hawks flying all around us. These birds flew so close to my head that I think a wing beat hit me! It’s an exhilarating experience to see and feel these amazing birds fly around you. The trainers and staff were great, showing extreme care for the animals and controlling the audience. After the show, we spent the rest of the morning wandering the grounds. This museum has a hummingbird exhibit that you walk inside of with over 30 hummingbirds flying around you. So cool to watch these birds hover inches in front of your face then go 0-100 in the blink of an eye. If you’re in the Tucson area, this is a great day trip.

Sabino Canyon

Close to our house was a popular attraction known as Sabino Canyon. This canyon snakes up the foothills of Mt. Lemon and offers stunning scenery and some fun water activities. We didn’t realize that this location was on national land under BLM control. So even though it was not a national park, it was covered under their umbrella so to speak. This means that the kids could become Junior Rangers! They have a great JR program that revolves around a nice half-mile nature trail with great exhibit signs and a wonderful booklet to follow. The whole things take about an hour and both the kids and Katie and I learned a ton about the desert flora and fauna. Once done we made our way to the canyon tour. The way Sabino canyon works is that you ride a tram up 9 stops over the course of almost 4 miles. The drive up parallels a stream for most of the way. The driver narrates on the way up giving little tidbits of knowledge about the canyon and area. You can get off at any stop and walk down or up. On the way up the driver pointed out a cool place on the river where people can swim and relax on some big rocks. This was our stop, so we got off the tram, hiked down into the canyon and found an awesome spot on the river with big flat rocks and a waterfall! We had a nice picnic lunch in the hot sun and splashed around. Afterward, we walked down several stops and took in the majestic sites of the canyon.

Bio-Dome err… Biosphere 2

Hahaha Biodome, a cult classic and not a very good one at that. That movie represents a time in the 80’s when Brendan Fraser and Pauly Shore were at their zenith for bad slapstick comedy. Right buu-uuu-uuu-dy. When I found out the inspiration for that film was Biosphere 2, I knew I had to jump at the chance to visit. It’s important to note that no part of the movie was filmed at this location. For a brief moment, I was sad that none of my prepackaged, stale 80’s jokes referencing the movie would be given life. Now that we have that out of the way, the actual biosphere is a really cool experience. Eight people, only two of which were scientists, spent two years locked in this place with only the sustenance they created themselves to survive. The biosphere is a representation of earth so there are several different habitats under the dome. The desert, the ocean, the rainforest, and savannah are just a few of the replicated habitats. The tour takes you through most of these areas and also gives you a bit of a, behind the scenes, look at the machinery that supports the experience. Oh, I forgot to mention that this is still a working experiment. Even though people aren’t locked inside anymore, tons of science is being undertaken to see how life reacts to various environments. This science will serve as the unpinning of our exploration of earth and into the stars. Such a powerful hands-on lab. Colette, Sienna, and even Lennox picked up some great knowledge from the visit. They asked lots of questions afterward and showed us that they picked up a glimpse of the bigger world around them. A win for mom and dad!

The End was Near – Titan II Missle Silo

Having grown up in the 80’s I did experience the cold war in a childish sort of way. Movies like Red Dawn, The Day After, Spies Like Us, and Firefox color my perspective of that time. Just outside of Tucson is a very real reminder of the danger of that time. Buried deep in the desert earth protected by alarms, barbwire fences and armed guards sits a 100′ tall missile that could have leveled an area 17 miles in diameter. The Titan Missle Museum is a tour through the underground complex that housed the missile and the soldiers that held the fate of the world in their hands. The tour is about an hour and takes you to the control room and the silo itself. The decommissioned missile still sits in the silo so you can get a real feel for the size of this WMD. The girls got a lot out of this experience, more the wow factor I think. The history kinda bored them but they liked the old computers and the missile itself. I think their favorite part was a one minute ride down an old elevator into the silo. Lennox was crazy on this tour. Typical tired five-year-old laughing inappropriately and running around. Bless Katie’s heart as she wrestled the mini beast through the tour. This site is not the greatest for kids but it is a wonderful history lesson.

Saguaro National Park

Our final day in Tucson was spent visiting the Saguaro National Park. A great day in 80-degree weather and a few new Junior Rangers to boot! The park is split into two big wildernesses and we chose the east side. A dirt road loop went through this part of the park with a number of stopping points for hiking. The park is breathtaking. Sooo many giant Saguaro standing like sentinels in the hot desert sun. It had rained the day before so the cacti were vivid green against the blue sunny sky. We stopped at a few hiking spots and walked through the unearthly landscape marveling at the scene unfolding around us. Sienna and Lennox love to run full speed down the trials regardless of the spiky dangers lurking to either side. Colette takes a more considered approach, but one of wonder and inquisition. All the kids worked on their junior ranger packets, identifying the different cacti and looking for desert animals. We had a picnic on some rocks and just took it all in. On one of the hikes we even got to see 1000-year-old petroglyphs, reminding us of the humanity sewn throughout the wilds of our country. We are very blessed to be able to see these great wonders of America. We headed back to the visitor center and the kids took their solemn oath of the junior ranger. This park was a spectacular end to a great stay in Tucson.